Ide to Bettws-Y-Coed and Llanrwat with notices of Capel Curig, Trefriw, and Dolwyddelaf , Abel Heywood THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES GIFT OF WILLIAM P. WREDEN 'M..WITH CYCLING, WALKING, & DRIVING ROUTES. 4 . A Twopenny Edition of this Guide may be had, containing: an 1 U . elaborate Map of the Neighbourhood, scale 4 miles to the Inch. bel H$foood'S Guide Books. WATERLOO HOTEL, BETTWS-Y-COED. Proprietress : MKS. McCULLOCH. . Manchester: Abel Reywood & Son, 56 & 58 Oldhara Street. London: E. W, Allen, Ave Maria Lane, Paternoster Row, E.G. 1903. PRICE ONE PENNY. 1903. WORMS IN CHILDREN, WORMS IN CHILDREN, Are easily, surely, and with per- fect safety got rid of by using1 HEATING'S WORM TABLETS. Nearly all children suffer from Worms. If suspected, do not wait, you can with case cure the child (has no effect except on worms). Sold by all Chemists, in Tins, Is. 1Jd. each. ; Paris, 1900. Highest Possible Award. 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For full particulars appb/ to the Superintendent of the Line, L. B. & S. C. Sly.f London Bridge Terminus. Terminu,. 1909 WILLIAM FORBES, 66116^1 ABEL HEYWOOD'S SERIES OP ILLUSTRATED PENNY GUIDE BOOKS. A GUIDE TO BETTWS-Y-COED AND LLANBWST WITH NOTICES OF CAPEL CURIG, TREFRIW, AND DOLWYDDELAF. MANCHESTER : ABEL HEYWOOD & SON, 56 & 58 OLDUAM STREET. LONDON : 2 E. W. ALLEN, AVE MARIA LANE, PATERNOSTER Row. JDA BETTWS-Y-COED. Bettws-y-coed is delightfully situated at the confluence of the rivers Conway and Llugwy, on the border of the counties of Denbigh and Carnarvon, It is 4 miles south from Llan- rwst and 17 east of Carnarvon, and may be reached either by rail, via Conway, or by the Carnarvonshire or Denbigh- shire roads, the former being preferable, because nearer. The grandeur and beauty of Bettws-y-Coed have for a long time been well known to artists, and no scenes in the British Islands have been oftener exhibited on the walls of the Royal Academy and in our leading Art galleries than the lovely river scenes of the Llugwy, Lledr and Conway. River, cataract, wocdland and mountain are here com- mingled in such variety that the title of the " Paradise of Wales " may be fairly given to Bettws-y-Coed. As a centre from which to make excursions into the neigh- bouring hills and dales, Bettws-y-Coed is perhaps the best halting place on the fringe of Snowdonia. It is distant from the Swallow Falls 2^ miles, Fairy Glen i^ miles, Conway Falls 2 miles, Pandy Mills 2^ miles, Llyn Elsie ii miles, Lyn- y-Parc i\ miles, Capel Garmon 2 miles, Capel Curig 5 miles, Pont-y-Pant 4^ miles, and Dolwyddelan 6 miles. There is any number of delightful short walks, and in the season, brakes for the Miner's Bridge, Fairy Glen and Swallow Falls, start from the station as the trains arrive, and there is also an abundance of cars at the station. The charge for cars is is. per mile outwards and half fare return, and for the driver 3d. per mile outwards and half fare return. Coaches run daily in the season (except Sunday) to Llanberis (16 miles) and back, fare 53., return 75. 6d. (giving time for the ascent of Snowdon from Pen-y-Gwyrd) ; to Beddgelert (18 miles) and back, fare 53., return 75. 6d. ; to Portmadoc (25 miles), via Beddgelert and Pass of Aberglaslyn and return by Festiniog toy railway, fare 75., return los. 8d ; to Bangor (21 miles), through pass of Nant Francon and return 559370 by L. & N, W. Railway, fare 55., return 73. 6d. ; to Capel Curig and back, fare is. 6d., return 2S. 6d., and to Fairy Glen, Conway Falls, Pandy Mill, etc., and back, fare is., return 2s. The beauties of river, woodland, glen, or waterfall scenery abound whichever way you take a lowland walk, while the more hardy rambler will enjoy the bracing uplands and an occasional climb to the peaks and ridges further afield. Beautiful exceedingly is the Llugwy river at and above the singular old bridge, and lovely the walks either along the north side of the stream to or beyond the old Miner's Bridge (which, deemed unsafe, has lately been superseded by a more substantial structure), or on the other side, by the more prosaic Holyhead (and Capel Curig) road, from which, how- ever, you can diverge into the cool shade of the woods. A mile or so further, and about two from the village, you reach the famous Swallow Falls — most beautiful, we think, when the stream is not in flood, and the water clear ; peat washings sometimes make it quite brown. An equally noted river scene is the Fairy Glen, a romantic ravine on the Conway. about two miles up the stream, just beyond the confluence with the Lledr river, and the cross- road, westward, to Dolwyddelan. Frequent brakes run to the Glen, as well as to the Swallow but if it be fine, walk by all means. There are two roads to the Fairy Glen ; the main Holy- head Road past the Waterloo Hotel, across the Waterloo Bridge, (note inscription in the metal work of the arch) then turn to the right and take the lower road with the finger post directing to Dolwyddelan ; proceeding half a mile, we come to the Beaver Bridge, where a turn-stile indicates the foot-road to the Glen. By the other road, we leave the main Holyhead Road before crossing the railway bridge, keeping the railway on our left, and, after a slight ascent, continue through the woods for half a mile ; passing under the line, we shortly arrive at a deep, calm, reach of the Conway, Llyn-yr- Afranc — the Beaver's Pool and Bridge. Some say the beaver was a water dragon, and the late Mr. Owen, of Pen- y-Gwryd, used to tell a quaint story of the creature's ill-doings until, by order of Merlin (or someone else), it was dragged across the country to Snowdon — twelve miles distant — by a team of white oxen, and consigned to the depths of Glaslyn. At the pool you cross the Beaver Bridge, and turn to the right along a narrow lane, which soon passes the entrance to the famous glen — a lovely combination of rapids, cascades, and rock-walls — feathered, and well-nigh roofed with foliage. On leaving the Fairy Glen you can follow the lane yet further, to the main road near the milestone (which indicates 47 to Holyhead), and add the Conway Falls and Machno Falls to the ramble ; as we gradually ascend, we notice the view behind us ; the rocky face of the steepest side of Moel Siabod is seen above Glen Lledr, westward you see, afar off, the jagged crest of the Tryfan, at Llyn Ogwen, twelve miles away along Telford's road, on the right and left of which are seen part of the Carnedds and Glyder summits, Just before joining the main road, about half a mile from the Fairy Glen, are the Conway Falls ; descending a somewhat steep path for a close inspection, the remains of an obtrusive salmon- ladder may be seen, which, having proved useless, has been allowed to fall in ruins. Returning, follow the Holyhead road about 200 yards, where it is joined by the road to Pen Machno on the right ; following it about half-a-mile until some cottages are reached, turn again to the right and you will reach the Machno Falls and Roman Bridge — a scene truly beloved by artists, and like the Trefriw mill, often and often, but never too often sketched. A ramble through the Coed- y-Ffynon woods, just west of the Machno Bridge, leads to the hilltop, 1,187 feet high, from it is a glorious view of Glen Lledr and Snowdonia, a truly magnificent evening scene. Continuing the walk from the Roman Bridge, in about half-a-mile you will come to Pandy Mill and Falls, the surroundings of which have recently lost much of their picturesque character, through the building of an unsightly lodging-house, and the clearing away of several quaint old out- buildings; but the falls and mill still remain intact, and, seen from the garden, will doubtless be recognised by many as a well known subject in our picture exhibitions. You can now return to Bettws-y-Coed, if on foot, by continuing the road on the west side of the Conway, and opposite to the Fairy Glen. Passing through picturesque woods, descend after a mile to the old Lledr Bridge, where turning to the right a few yards will bring you to an old toll house and the Tyn-y- Cae Pool, where the junction of the Conway and the Lledr occurs, and in the distance is seen the Beaver Bridge. A fine moor and ramble is the walk to Llyn Elsi, reached from near the church by a narrow way which climbs the east side of Garth Eryr, a hill dominating the village on the south. On the summit is a grand outlook, with Moel Siabod as the chief mountain feature, the lake just below to the south, and Tan-yr-allt, in Glen Lledr, a mile beyond — a course you may either take on the return, or follow the outward flow of the lake northward, reaching the Capel Curig road half a mile from Bettws. Before descending, however, note well the forms and positions of hills, vales, roads, and even cottages information so gained, is pretty sure to come in useful in future rambles ; eg., the climb to Llyn-y-Parc. Cross Pont- y-Pair and turn to the left, as though bound for the Miner's Bridge, but in half a mile turn to the right up a valley, down which comes the Llugwy's first tributary brook west of the old bridge. About three-quarters of a mile northward bear right to Pen'rallt, then north again round or over a cairn- topped hill, from which you see to the north-east a cottage near the outlet of the lake, the stream from which takes a precipitous short cut among woods (and, more's the pity, mine works) to the Llanrwst road, three-quarters of a mile north of Bettws. We have climbed both up and down the channel— an interesting, but, in wet weather, a risky scramble. There is a track along the east side of Llyn-y-Parc to its northern end, from which it looks not unlike a well-wooded reach of some placid lowland stream — a semblance due to its being comparatively narrow and a little curved. The uplands bordering the old Capel Curig road yield fine moorland and mountain scenery, and may be reached by either the north side of the Llugwy, going as though for the Miner's Bridge, but past it and bearing upwards towards the perched-aloft summer-house overlooking the Swallow Falls ; or by following the Holyhead road to the Ty-hyll Bridge, just passing milestone 42, crossing it, and going straight forward up the old road itself. At a point where the road makes a turn to the right, a path runs straight on towards a cottage. If you take this path you come to the most picturesque view of the Swallow Falls, and perhaps the only spot where the whole fall, or succession of falls, is to be seen. The path crosses a stream and then turns down to the left, 8 you cross a stile, and, where the path forks, take the left branch, which brings you to another little bridge in view of the fall, andthe scene here is truly lovely. The moors above are well besprinkled with lakes, tarns, lead mine works, and water wheels. Amcng minor rambles, easily made out by the map, you may climb Garth-myn, south-east of Bettws, and visit Capel Garmon. The hill is 822 feet high, one of a group very fine in form and colour, and seen afar along the Conway valley. Follow the great road to, and over, Waterloo Bridge ; then if streams be full, take the Llanrvvst road (north) for a few hundred yards, and turn to the right up a track which doubles back a little as it climbs the slope. In dry weather you may cut off the corner by striking east up the hill near the bridge until, after crossing a sometimes furious torrent, you join the above track, which now turns eastward, and in half a mile brings you to the hill. Garth-myn, from its position, gives excellent views down Llanrwst vale, and up the Llugwy to the Snowdonian heights ; though Snowdon itself is eclipsed by Moel Siabod. You can descend south to Capel Garmon, with its church and yew trees ; and the antiquary may look up Careg Lleon, " the Stone of the Legion," and the two cromlechs near Ty'n-y-coed (one of them very perfect), from which point, a winding track leads south-west to the main road near Conway Falls, at milestone 47, whence the south-west turn leads to Penmachno, and onward by bleak uplands to Festiniog ; the latter more easily reached by rail via Glyn Lledr and Dolwyddelan. THE OLD CHURCH. This church is one of the oldest in the principality, and is now used for interments only. It stands under the shade of ancient yews, near the railway station, and contains some interesting monuments, one in particular to the memory of Gruffydd, son of Dafydd Goch, and Grandson of Dafydd, last prince of Wales, brother to the Great Llewellyn. On the monument is a recumbent figure, and on one side the inscription — " Hie jacet Gruffydd, of Dafydd Goch. Agmts dei miserere mei." Gruffydd died in the i4th century. About thirty yards from the church, down the lane towards the fields in the CHURCH POOL is a favourite spot for artists, and a few yards further are the stepping stones. PONT-Y-PAIR. On quitting the station, turn to the right into the Holyheaj Road, opposite the Royal Hotel (the signboard of which, painted by David Cox, may still be seen there). About 100 yards further on to the right is the romantic bridge of Pont- y-Pair, designed by Inigo Jones, which spans a miniature cataract of the Llugwy, the foaming torrent as it rushes over the jagged rocks and under the arch of the bridge making with its island and fir trees a splendid picture for the amateur photographer. The view from the summits above Pont-y- Pair is very fine and extensive, embracing Moel Siabod ; The Glyders, The Camedds, Tryfan, etc., and Bettws-y- Coed at your feet. Over the road between Llanrwst and Bettws-y-Coed towards the magnificent Bock of the Falcon, in which was once the cave of the outlaw David ap Jenkin, temp. Edward IV. Ogoff Shenkin has attached to it, as most Welsh caves have, a legend. It records that, in the reign of Henry VII., a woodcutter named Jordan, whilst standing on Pont- y-pair, had a whisper from a power " uncanny " that in the cave of Jenkin there was that worth searching for. He mounted the rock in the early morning, whilst a heavy fog hung over the hill, but a bluish light issued from the cave, and directed his path. Entering the cave in a state of semi- intoxication and terror he heard a long drawn " ba-a-a," and saw two rolling globes of light, all of which proceeded from the sole occupant of the cave — a huge goat, which had one of its hoofs on a mighty chest, its eyes being fixed on a clasped book as if in deep meditation. The goat told Jordan that great wealth was in store for him on certain conditions, other goats were summoned, incantations gone through, and a heap of gold thrown into a crucible, and the chief goat said to Jordan, " I will make thee a man of gold — drink and be wealthy." Avarice overcame fear, and the woodcutter swallowed the draught. The next instant he was butted from the cavern by the head of the animal and found him- self in the valley at the door of his own dwelling, and at the same moment the mouth of the cave closed up and has never been found since. The secret ot the story is that Jordan's capital was never available, even to himself, and the rest of his natural life was rendered miserable by the fear that some- body would steal him, and the ruling passion being still strong 10 Photo by MINER'S BRIDGE. I. Slater, Llandudno. at his death, he made a bargain with the priest that his body was to have decent Christian burial, the church being content with a little finger to defray expenses. Whether or not the church held to their bargain tradition does not say. THE MINER'S BRIDGE. A mile on the Holyhead Road from Bettws-y-coed, passing Pont-y-Pair on the right, is the gate leading to this old relic, which is well worth seeing, the views from the bridge on both sides being really charming. It is a sloping, wooden structure, and was originally placed there by the miners from Pentre Ddu (the village on the left), to cross on their way to the mines in the opposite hills, these mines formerly giving employment to about 500 hands. There is a way over the bridge and through the woods back to Bettws-y-Coed. SWALLOW FALLS. Another mile on the Holyhead Road brings us to the Rhaiadr-y-Wennol or Swallow Waterfall, which has now 12 become so famous as to be visited by 20,000 to 30,000 people annually. It is a scene where the visitor can linger a long time, for its surroundings are grand. After viewing the upper fall turn to the right and proceed cautiously down the steps to the lower fall, under the lowest depths of which the soul of Sir John Wynn, of Gwydyr, who died in 1626, is supposed to be undergoing punishment for the deeds done in his " days of nature." THE CONWAY VALLEY. Most of those who visit Nant Conway, the beautiful " Vale of Llanrwst," will have reached it via Llandudno junction ; and in the hurry of sight-seeing against time, many will per- versely stick to the rail whithersoever it may lead them, not always a wise course. The extension of the line from Llan- rwst to Bettws-y-Coed injured for a while the former place ; and its further continuation mountain-ward will doubtless cause many to rush past Bettws (so beautiful still in spite of recent vandalism), to find themselves caught in a tangle of branch-lines, " loop," and mineral traffic ; shunted into a quarry, or, if somewhat careless, even spirited away from Taffyland altogether. Visitors may either travel from Conway by boat (in the season) or by rail. There is one advantage in going by boat, and that is that the boat only makes the passage when the tide is up and the river is at its best. The aber, or mouth of the Conway, seems like a beautiful lake until we pass the turn of the river which shuts out Conway and its castle from our view. To begin with the route by rail, as you turn southward from the junction look out on the right for a view unique as a railway picture In sweeping round the Conway estuary, beautiful exceedingly at high tide, you see across the mile- wide sheet of water the Castle and town of Conway, a scene not much changed, except as regards the iron-road and its belongings, since the time when " Edward I., of memory accurst," (in the eyes of the Cymro) built, six hundred yeais ago, the grand fortress of Conway. As we leave Llandudno junction and skirt the estuary, the dark woods of Benarth look fine on the opposite bank, and high up the hill is the hall, which must command a beautiful prospect. Moel Eilio comes in sight down the valley as we '3 proceed, the curiously shaped Penllithrig-y-Wrach ; we next see Carnedd Llewellyn, Foel Fras, and, nearer to us Tal-y-fan (2,000 feet), and arrive at the first station, Glan Conway (Llan- santffraid-Glan Conway) which is a mile and a half from the junction. Not far from this station are the lovely waterfalls of Mant Geneth, from which a splendid view of Conway is obtained. The next station is Tal-y-cafn (5^ miles from the junction), the starting place for several excursion routes, such as the Porthlywd Falls, Llyn Dulyn and the pass of Bwich-y- ddeufaen en route for Aber or Llanfairfechan. At Tal-y-cafn station you have, about a mile to S.E., the pretty village of Eglwys-bach, and at twice that distance westward, Y Ro-wen ; both places, like others on the lower Conway, favourite haunts of artists. A ferry used to cross the Conway here, but has been re- placed by a very substantial iron bridge, crossing which you reach the pass of Bwlch-y-ddeufaen, the track of which you may recognise from a distance, by its cutting off Tal-y-fan from its bigger brethren to the south. This part of Carnar- vonshire is full of antiquarian remains: — traces of Roman, Cambrian, and even of pre-historic times.' To begin with the pass itself: it leads due west from Tal-y-caln to the sea coast at Aber, a distance of nine miles, and was doubtless used in pre-Celtic times. About a mile from the ferry you cross the highway leading from Conway to Bettws-y-Coed (there is one on the Denbighshire side as well), and in a mile further come to Y Ro-wen. From this place the antiquary may appreciate a detour of a mile, northward, to the old church of Llangellynen, one of the most primitive in Wales ; or the climber find fit reward in the look-out from Craig-y-dinas north-east, or the loftier Tal-y-fan south -west, from the church ; in the latter case descending, if so disposed, by Y Foellwyd.the mountain's southern outwork, to the watershed of the Pass, at the "two stones" from which it takes its name. The erect stone — one has fallen — is about three yards in height, the road is here about 1,400 feet above sea level, and a more lonesome spot is hardly to be found even in Wales. Here Aber and the sea are distant about four miles but at Pont-newydd, the oft-sketched bridge, about a mile east of the village, you may prefer to visit the Aber falls which are full in view at about half-an-hour's walk south- ward up the glen of Aber-fawr. After passing Tal-y-cafn you Photo by FAIRY GLEN. Isaac Slater. see, across the river, — first Y Ro-wen with its cottages, white as per the name ; then Caerhun church just over the water. Caerhun church is built on the site of the ancient Roman station of Conovium. Many interesting relics have, from time to time been excavated here, some of them being in the British Museum. Foundations of a Roman villa have been laid open, and there are traces of a hypocaust. These ruins are a little behind the churchyard. In the churchyard is also an enormous holly, with a trunk nine feet in circum- ference. A Roman road is traced here from the ferry through the Bwlch-y-ddeufaen Pass, to Aber. After passing Caerhun church we see Llanbedr, the entrance of the Dulyn glen, and at eight miles from Conway, glittering aloft among hanging woods the Porthlwyd falls, on the stream which comes from Llyn Eigiau ; to which the robust scrambler will find it a pleasant ramble of four miles up the vale : and /row which he may extend his walk (two or three miles further) to Llyn Dulyn and the Carnedds. At the ninth mile (by rail) you see, in like position, the falls of Dolgarrog on the outlet stream from Llyn Cowlyd, which is about three miles further back to the south-west. These comparatively foreground objects form a running panorama of great beauty, backed by the noble heights already described. A little further on is seen what looks like a large streak of yellow ochre descending the face of the rock. It is this yellow bed which conveys the healing stream of Trefriw to the house below. Trefriw wells being about a mile and a quarter from the village. A few minutes more and we are at Llanwirk and Trefriw station, a short run from thence through Llan- rwst, bringing us to Bettws-y-Coed. THE FAIRY GLEN. This glen, as its name suggests, is a truly enchanting spot. From the railway station to reach the glen, we turn into the Holyhead road to the left, passing the Waterloo Hotel, and over the Waterloo Bridge, which spans the river Conway. After crossing the bridge we descend to the right, the beautifully wooded hills and pine-clad precipices on every side presenting a grand picture. On arriving at the Fairy Glen House, close to the Beaver's Pool Bridge, a lane is entered on the left, and after proceeding a short distance the rocky dell is seen below us. Descending by some steps to i6 the bed of the river we gain a secluded spot amongst huge masses of rock, where the whole scene seems to be one of enchantment. The waters of the Conway rush along the narrow gorge in a continuous torrent, the vertical rocks on either side being clothed with vegetation of the richest kind, the stream winding round the picturesque cliffs, after passing the gorge, on its way to its junction with the Llugwy. After re-ascending, a few minutes' stroll along the path, which leads to the Conway Falls, will repay the visitor. In returning to Bettws-y-Coed you can cross the Beaver's Pool Bridge and enter a road on the right which leads through the wood, and emerges a few yards from the Waterloo Hotel. CAPEL CURIG. Proceed from Bettws-y-Coed along the Holyhead Road past the Miner's Bridge and Swallow Falls until you reach Ty-hyll Bridge, by which you cross the Llugwy. Close to the bridge there is a way to Llanrwst across the mountains. From the bridge, the summit of Carnedd Llewellyn is a conspicuous object, with Carnedd Daffydd to the left of it. Passing a number of hotels and lodging-houses, Moel Siabod looks very fine above the fir trees on our left, and it is not long ere we reach the corner where, in the old coaching days, the horses were changed. At this corner Snowdonia stands before us a splendid picture — Crib Coch, Crib-y-ddysgl, Y Wyddfa, and Lliwedd, all visible — as they are seen from the garden of the big hotel. During the season there are coaches daily performing this little journey from Bettws-y-Coed and back, which allows tourists to pass some hours at Capel Curig. The more hardy climber (for Capel Curig is a place for climbing) may ascend Moel Siabod by, not crossing the bridge, but mounting the track leading to the slate quarry, high up on the south-west, going past it to Llyn-y-foel, and, if not plagued with " nerves," reaching the mountain crest by a scramble up the northern one of two gulleys which descend the precipice towards the tarn, and are so narrow as to be out of sight until you are right opposite. (The southern groove may be practicable — we have not tried it.) For a much easier ascent, turn to the right (west) when half way to the quarry, and afterwards southward ; first flanking, then turning the mountain's north- east end. The rampart of broken rock which faces north is, by the way, not so inaccessible as it looks; but on crossing, or getting round it, you find the summit a good half-mile to south-west. The intervening crest, though rough and block- strewn, is easy walking, and the downlook to Llyn-y-foel very grand. You may descend due north to Bryn Engyn, a white house at the upper edge of the steep woodland south of Capel Curig and thence to the bridge at the outlet of the lakes, close to the Royal Hotel. The reverse of this descent is the most convenient and shortest way up, being, in fact, " Siabod made easy." The mountain being, like Arenig Fawr and the Carnarvon Moel Eilio (there is a lesser one north of Llyn Cowlyd), an outlier, commands a magnificent look out. Behind the post office, at the old Llugwy bridge, is an out- lying bit of Fairy-glen-hke river scenery, the last of the kind Snowdon-ward ; and from this point you may make a long up-and-down westward ascent of the Glyders, keeping a sharp look-out for bogs, and having glorious mountain scenery all the way ; first climbing Cefn-y-capel, then on past Gallt-y- go-go and another peak. Glyder Fach, or Lesser Glyder — the nearer of the two, and for its crag and block scenery, the wonder of Snowdonia. [See Kingsley's " Two Years ago."] From the Lesser Glyder you may, in half an hour, reach Glyder Fawr, or descend north, with care, by the head of Cwm Tryfan to Cwm Bochhvyd (a grand, yet rarely visited spot), and thence go up the Tryfan, 3,000 feet high, an ascent much easier than it looks, and well worth the extra trouble, The outflow from Llyn Bochhvyd will guide ycu to the Bangor road at Llyn Ogwen. This point you may reach by coach or car, or vary it, if on foot, by crossing the post office bridge and following the old road, the distance being nearly five miles. Here you may turn south by the Hone Mill to Llyn Idwal, and on to Twll Du, or the Devil's Kitchen, three-quarters of a mile (and nearly three-quarters of an hour) beyond, and from thence, not through the chasm, turn its eastward rock-portal and climb up to Llyn-y-cwn, and the heights described in our " Guide to Carnarvon and Llanberis." A little beyond milestone 39 you may turn to right up a cart road, past a farm, and on north to Llyn Cowlyd ; or leave the track for a climb up Pen-llithrig-y-wrach, and on thence along the sky-line to Pen-helyg, from which is an easy i8 descent by its long southern arm to the road. A fair climber may continue the walk from Pen-helyg along a very sharp ridge, with Ffynon Llugwy, source of the river, in a fine hollow on the left, and Cwm Eigiau, with its " Frog Pool " (Ffynon Llyffaint), on the right, to Bwlch-cyfrwy-drym (the back wall of Cwm Pen-llafar), where a turn to north will land him on Carnedd Llewelyn ; and south to west above the Black Ladders (the south wall of the Cwm] on Carnedd Cafydd, the next peaks in height after Snowdon, being respectively 3,482 and 3,430 feet above sea level. (For the views see our '• Guide to Bangor and Beaumaris.") From Carnedd Dafydd you can descend south to Ffynon Lloer, and follow its outfall, still south, to Llyn Ogwen and the main road ; or go down from Cyfrwy-drym, south-east, past Craig Llugwy and Glan Llugwy farm to the road at a point nearer Capel Curig. DOLWYDDELAN. Dolwyddelan, distance about five and a half miles from Bettws-y-Coed by road, or six miles by rail, is a large village in the Lledr Valley, and is well worth the walk along Glyn Lledr, and by Pont-y-Pant. The old church is a curious piece of antiquity, the oak screen being almost unique. In the church, which was built by Mereddyd-ap-Ifan, is a monument to his family, and a Latin inscription, on brass ; " Pray for the souls of Meredydd-ap-Ifan ap Robert, Knight, and Alice, his wife, who died ijth March, 1525, for whose souls God be propitiated. Amen." The scanty ruins of the Castle are about a mile from the village, towards Festiniog, and near the railway. It is supposed to have been built in the eighth century. Close to the Castle is a curious cottage called Hafad-y-Gwragedd (the Women's Habitation), where the women dwelt when the men were in the Castle. This castle was the birthplace of Llewellyn the Great. There is now a new church at Dolwyddellen, but the curious little building founded by Mereddyd should really be visited An old farm house at the end of the parish, called Coetntor, was once the residence of that famous warrior, Howel-y- Fwyell (Howell of the Battle Axe), who fought at the battle of Poictiers, and, tradition says, took prisoner the French king, though that honour is given by historians to Denis de Morbecque, a knight of Artois. 20 LLANRWST. Lllanrwst station, four miles north of Bettws-y-Coed, is a good half-mile north of the town, which is on the Denbigh- shire side of the Conway, and owing to cuttings and a tunnel, is hardly seen from the line. The town itself is not very remarkable, except for its old church, dedicated to St. Grwst, or Rhystyd, with the Gwydir chapel designed by Inigo Jones and erected in 1633, the monuments of the Wynn family, in the form of brasses and marbles, which are beautiful and curious, and other monuments on the floor, which have been removed here for protection and preservation, including the stone coffin of Llewelyn ap lorwerth, Prince of Wales from 1194 to 1240. The coffin is ornamented with quatrefoils. The beautifully carved rood-loft and screen, said to have been brought from Maenan Abbey, is one of the most notable features of the church. Suspended against the wall of the chapel are a pair of antique spurs which belonged to Davydd- ap-Jenkin, the " Rob Roy " of Wales. The ground on which the church is built is, like many other similar places in Wales, connected with a tale of blood, being given, according to tradition, by Rhun-ap-Nefydd- Hardd, in expiation of the murder of Idwal, the son of Owen Gwynedd, by Nefydd, his foster-father, who had been en- trusted with his care. At the gate of the churchyard there are some almshouses of a very depressing character, to judge by their looks, which, to believe the native testimony, were once inhabited by a set of lively and loquacious old ladies. The last of the Llanrwst harp-makers (and harp making was once on a time the most notable business of the town) is said to have ended his days in these buildings, but would never finish an instrument at nome lest the noise the said old ladies made should affect the harp and spoil its tone. The old bridge over the Conway is rather a steep and in- convenient structure, built, it is said, by Richard Wynn, from designs by Inigo Jones (who was a native of this part of the country) in 1636. Others suppose that it was raised at the expense of the county. It is built upon such nice principles, that when a person bumps his back suddenly against the large stone which is placed over the centre arch, the whole fabric will sensibly vibrate [or shake. There is commonly a man on Jthe^ bridge who," /by a consideration, will 21 do the back-bumping for the edification of visitors, but the said visitors are generally disposed to take the shaking for granted without the experiment. GWYDIR CASTLE. Cross the old bridge, and in half a mile you reach the Conway and Bettws highway, close to Gwydir Castle, a modern house on the site of a very old one, the entrance to which is a few yards to the left. Near this point the old Capel Curig road starts for a 3$ mile course over hill and moor until it joins Telford's great road. At first it passes through dense woodland, and, when it emerges among the hills, yields grand mountain views. At half a mile you pass the gamekeeper's house, where two other courses are open ; turning to the left you have the most lovely walks among the woods, winding and intermixing in various ways ; here too is the site — high up — of an older Gwydir, and there yet remains the old chapel, still used for service. At various points you may descend into the Bettws road again. Gwydir, which is quite a show place during the season, stands at the foot of a lofty rock called Carreg-y-Gwalch, and is surrounded by most magnificent woods. It derives its name from Gwaed-dir (the bloody land], an allusion to a battle fought here about A.D. 610, by Llywarch Hen. Most of the present building was erected in the early part of the present century, although there still remain traces of the Elizabethan period. Some of the rooms contain carved work of that period, and the time of James I., and there is a screen which is said to have been worked by the hand of Mary Queen of Scots. The castle abounds in curiosities, and some parts of the Spanish leather wall-covering and tapestry will well repay examination. There are a few portraits in the place, by Lely and other artists. The property, which was long the patrimony of the Wynns, came into the possession of Lord Willoughby D'Eresby, by mar- riage.* Recently, Lord Willoughby D'Eresby now Lord Ancaster, sold the Trefriw portion of the Gwydr estate ; the * Sir John Wynn, of Gwydir, was a celebrity in his time. He was M.P. for Carnarvon- shire in 1576, one of the Council for the Marches of Wales, and created a baronet in 1611. 'Being very shrewd and successful in his dealings," people supposed that he oppressed them, and Yorke says — "It is the superstition of the place to this day that the spirit of the old gentleman lies under the great waterfall, Rhaiadr-y-Wennol (better known as the Swallow Fall), there to be punished, purged, spouted upon, and purified from the foul deeds done in his days of nature." 22 castle and a portion of the estate surrounding it are now in the possession of the Earl of Carrington. Near the castle is a beautiful cataract, called Rhaiadr-y-Parc Mawr, the fall of which is about a hundred feet. As we leave Gwydir, we find, on the opposite side of the road, the approach to Gwydir Ucha, where there is an Epis- copal chapel, once a summer residence of the Gwydir family. We reach the little building (where service is yet performed in summer time on a Sunday afternoon) by a flight of steps. The chapel is curiously arranged and the seats are old oak chairs. Over the door is inscribed " 1673, S. R. W. B." Near the entrance to Gwydir is also an old bowling green. There are walks in many directions in the Gwydir Woods. Beyond the keeper's house you may take a turn to the left (south) up Nant Gwydir, with a brook and some lead mines below on the right, until you reach the head of Llyn-y-Parc, to the right (west) of which the upland of Mwdwl Eithin affords one of the finest outlooks in the country. North you have the whole vale right away to the Ormes Heads and the sea ; and east, south, and on to north-west, the grandest of mountain panoramas, including all the giants of Snowdonia except Moel Hebog, which is eclipsed by Siabod. The fine form of the latter as thus seen (much foreshortened) is very striking. At the keeper's house again, you may turn north and skirt the woodland till you descend into the highway towards Trefriw ; or by keeping up hill reach after some twists and turns the church of Llanrhychwyn, unique in its rude antiquity, and subject of two pictures by Clarence Whaite. West of this primitive village, Llyn Geirionydd and Llyn Crafnant, well worth a visit, are easily reached ; and from the latter a pleasant upland walk of three miles will take you to Capel Curig. Five miles south-east of Llanrwst is Gregthorn, the site of an ancient nunnery where St. Winifred was buried. Llanrwst itself forms a centre for many most lovely walks of the less muscle-and-nerve-trying kind, among woodland, cliff, and water scenery of the highest type, their beauty enhanced by the distant line of rugged moor and mountain, and is moreover a favourite resort of artist and angler. Photo by • •• * ,': > * ' ' THE CONWAY AT TREFRIW. fsanc Slater TREFRIW. From the Gwydir road junction Trefrivv, once celebrated for the manufacture of Welsh harps, is distant a mile and a half down the Conway road ; but a short distance may, unless the flooded Conway bar the way, be saved by turning to the right across the fields just over Llanrwst bridge. Trefriw is about 9^ miles from Conway, and five miles south of the cross road (before described) leading to Y-Ro-wen. Its chief attractions are the mountain and woodland walks in well nigh every direction, the angling, the two fine waterfalls — Dolgarrog and Porthlwyd, and the wholesome (but very nasty) mineral spring near the eighth milestone from Conway, which runs, or seems to run, down the bare hillside like a streak of yellow ochre. It is a great resort of artists, and has been the creator of many pictures which have graced the walls of the Royal Academy. Taliesin, the father of Welsh poetry, is said to have resided in the neighbourhood. Trefriw was a residence of Llewelyn, who is said to have built the old Llanrhychwyn (or Llewelyn's) church for the convenience of his wife, who wished to avoid the fatigue of attending service at Llanrhychwyn. The building is one of the rudest and most primitive places of worship in the principality, and is dedicated to St. Rhychwyn, who lived, it photoby FAIRY FALLS, TREFRIW. I. Slater, Llandudno. 25 is said, in the sixth century. The building is a low edifice about forty feet long inside. Its antiquity is apparent ; the architecture carries us back to pre-Anglo-Norman times. The roof timbers, the old oaken door, hinged on wooden pivots, and some of the windows are very curious, and will repay the time taken in inspecting them. Over the lych gate, which it is interesting to note, opens into the field and not into the road, is the inscription : " IT. ID. or. 1462. wo." The key of the church is kept in a cottage close by. The walk to the lakes Geirionydd and Crafnant, going or returning by way of Llanrhychwyn church, is perhaps Photo by LLYN CRAKNANT. Isaac Slater. -easier to make out than the route from the Gwydir woods. The lakes are but two miles away up the glen, which forks like a Y to reach them. The right branch leads to Crafnant and the left to Geirionydd, the tarns being separated by but a half-mile of ridge, Mynydd Deulyn. LLYN CRAFNANT is as fine in its weird, steel-blue beauty as anything that can be seen in the most popular of show places in the United Kingdom, and it has also the great advantage of solitude, for there are no habitations within a mile of the lonely little cottage where they give you milk to drink at the end of the walk. When the Gwydr was sold, a short time ago, the late Mr. James, solicitor, Llanrwst, purchased the 26 lake, afterwards presenting it in perpetuity to the town of Uanrwst for their water supply. LLYN GEIRIONYDD has been rendered almost classical by being the reputed scene of the home of the Welsh bard, Taliesin, who is said to have been found on its shore like Moses in the bulrushes. A monument erected by Lady Willoughby D'Eresby marks his supposed residence. Llanrhychwyn is a mile south of Trefriw, along a road parallel with the Bettws highway, but rising up the flanks of the wooded hillside. The stream from the two lakes turns the ever-sketched (and never too often) Trefriw mill. The Dolgarrog Falls are i£ miles along the Conway road ; those of Porthlwyd a mile beyond. The source of the former is Llyn Cowlyd, three miles away among the hills ; and of the latter Llyn Eigiau at about the same distance. The lover of moor and mountain should visit both. ABEL HEYWOOD & SON, PRINTERS, OLDHAM STREET, MANCHESTER. 0 <2 |J O C-o Pi '3 WO P3 BETTTATS-Y-COEID CRAIG-Y-DON BOARDING ESTABLISHMENT AND RESTAURANT . Near Post Office atid -Station . . Established 1870. GOOD POSTING. Mrs. Hughes, Proprietress. GOOD PRIVATE APARTMENTS AND PUBLIC ROOMS. MODERATE CHARGES. CYCLISTS and PARTIES Specially Catered for. The largest stock of photographs taken by BEDFORD, NORMAN, FRITH, VALENTINE, 4c. ABRAHAM'S Views of Mountain Scenery. KEEN'S Views of Gwydyr Castle. GREEN'S Celebrated Platinotypes of North Wales. Cbe Pbotocbrome Co/s Colour Pbotos, $c., $c. Photographic Materials, Kodak and Frena Films, Chemicals, and Plates of the leading makers. Developing and Printing. *** Dark Rooms. PICTORIAL POST CARDS. FISHING TACKLE for Salmon, Se win, and Trout, and all the tickets and licences R. PARRY, Chemist, BETTWS-Y-COED. Cycling, Walking, and Driving Routes. ROUTE I.— LLANGOLLEN TO BANGOR. The letters R and L in capitals signify right or left turn, as the case may be. LLANGOLLEN Uphill to Berwyn Station. From Llangollen to Corwen, a Berwyn Sta. if third of the distance is uphill, rest is easy running and good Corwen io| road with glorious scenery. Straight through Corwen town, Cerrig-y-Druidion then R over Railway Bridge along Telford's Road. Stiff ride 2oj from Corwen to Cerrig-y-Druidion with several good runs down. Surface good. CKRRIG-Y- Straight along, easy undulations with good surface to Pentre DRUIDION Voelas. Then easy run, mostly downhill with one difficult descent a mile short of Bettws. Excellent surface. Keep straight through Pentre Voelas 5^ Bettws. Conway Falls, situated amidst fine surroundings, and Fairy Glen, a delightful combination of rocks, greenery, and rush- Bettws-y-Coed ing torrent, are both on L before reaching Bettws. Road now on I2j rise as far as the Swallow Falls (free, and by many considered Capel Curig 17^ the finest in Wales). Then fairly level with short steep ascent to Capel Curig. Surface good. At Capel turn u, and then L*ke Ogwen 22^ straight road, rising and very rough and stony for 3} miles, to elevation of 1,050 feet above sea level. Then undulating for Pass of Ffrancon ij miles with gentle fall at Lake Ogwen. Bet-ween Capel 23^ Curig and Lake Ogwen the scenery is wild and bleak. Magai- Bethesda 27f ficent views are obtained of the famous Glyder heights. Lake Ogwen itself lies in the hollow between the mountains. All BANGOR 32} down hill now to Bethesda ; steep hill requiring care, with sharp bend just before reaching the town. Good road. Penrhyn Slate Quarries are passed on the L before reaching Bethesda. At Bethesda follow main road over the bridge. ROUTE II.— BANGOR TO CARNARVON. BANGOR Through High Street, and bear R just before station into Holyhead Road ; turn L at fork. Long rise from Bangor to Upper Bangor I Upper Bangor, but rideable ; afterwards easy going mostly CARNARVON 10 descending with good surface, and glimpses of the Menai Straits. ROUTE III.— CARNARVON TO BEDDGELERT (direct). CARNARVON Leave by Tithebarn Street, sharply undulating to Waenfawr, Caeathraw li i mile before which keep to L ; then easier undulations to Waenfawr 4 Llyn Cwellyn, soon after which begins a steady ascent to nearly Bettws Garmon 6 700 feet, then follows a 3 mile winding easy descent to Llyn Cwellyn 7 Beddgelert. Surface good. BEDDGELERT 1 2^ ROUTE IV. - CARNARVON TO BEDDGELERT (by Llanberis). CARNARVON Leave by Pool Street and turn L into Llanberis Road. To Llanberis the road is on the whole bad. First 2 miles Llanrug 3} ascending, then undulating, ending in a sharp difficult descent Penybont 5^ into Llanberis. At Llanrug, keep straight forward, and at Llanberis ?| Penybont bear R. Fine views of Snowdon as Llanberis is (Pass of Llanberis) neared. From Llanberis'an ascent of 3 miles through the pass Gorwysfa 13 commences. Surface rough, scenery wild. Gorwysfa is the Pen-y-Gwrhyd actual summit, and thence it is nearly all down hill to Hotel 14 Beddgelert. Surface exceedingly stony and rough. At Pen- BEDDGELERT2IJ y-Gwrhyd, turn to R. Some very fine views of Snowdon and Lakes Gwynant and Dinos are obtained during this run. The " easy " ascent of Snowdon from Llanberis can be well com- bined with this route. DEACONS' Cycle & Motor Depot, Cloddaeth Street, LLANDUDNO. First-Class Cycles for Hire, by the Hour, Day, Week, or Month. Repairs of Every Description. -i=r— — r=l- Immense Sfock of Accessories. Photo Stores, in connection with the above. Every Requisite for Photography in stock — MOUNTS, DISHES, PLATES, PAPERS, DEVELOPERS, &c., &c. DARK ROOMS for the use of Visitors. Motor Storage, Petrol, and Accessories. BETT WS» Y-COJEP __ DETTWS-Y-COED, N. Wales. Furnished Apartments and Boarding if desired (but no Private Room). House is pleasantly situated, close to English Church and Railway Station. Terms Moderate. MISS HUGHES, COED-Y-FRON. DOEL-HYFRYD. The above house is pleasantly situated, overlooking the river, and the views from its windows are considered amongst the finest in North Wales. To be Let, Furnished — Three Sitting, Five Bedrooms. Apply, Mrs. JOHN OWEN. A PARTMENTS-Bryn-Tawel. ^^ Centrally situated, overlooking the Main Road to Swallow Falls. Three Sitting- Rooms, Five Bedrooms, and Hot and Cold Baths. Apply, MISS OWEN. A PARTMENTS— Snowdon Villa. Pleasantly situated in Capel Curig Road. Five minutes walk from Bettws-y-Coed Railway Station. Fine View of the River. Terms, etc., apply, MISS OWEN. APARTMENTS— With or Without Board. Centrally situated, within easy distance of all places of interest.. Garden, Two Sitting- Rooms, and Six Bedrooms. MRS. WILLIAM JONES, GORTHDDERWEN. FRONHEULOG, Bettws=y=Coed, NORTH WALES. COMFORTABLE APARTMENTS. Beautifully situated. With or without Board; Terms on application. Eight minutes' walk from Station. Mrs. JOHN HUGHES. A PARTMENTS— With or Without Board. Three Sitting- Rooms, Six .Bedrooms. Refreshments. Cars for Hire. Apply, MRS. C. JONES, COED-Y-PAIR. OYLLAN— Bettws-y-Coed. EVAN JONES, Joiner and Builder. Estimates given free on application for all kinds of Joinering, Building, and all kinds of Repairs. Tan-y-Marian Situated in Main Road just above the PONT-Y-PAIR BRIDGE, withia Five Minutes of Railway Station. Every Accommodation for VISITORS or CYCLISTS. APARTMENTS. Bettws-y-Coed. Proprietress: Mrs. J. JONES. Cycling, Walking, and Driving Routes. For this season's Guides we have prepared a complete set ot routes in North Wales, which have been divided into four groups. Group A will be found in each of our guides to Rhyl, Rhuddlan and St. Asaph, Abergele, Colwyn Bay, and ^ Llandudno, and consists of Chester to Llandudno (2 routes) ; Rhyl to Abergele, Newmarket, Bettws-y- Coed (2 routes), and Ruthin; and Llandudno to Con way. Group B will be found in each of our guides to Conway and Penmaenmawr, Bangor and Beaumaris, Carnarvon and Llanberis, Snowdon and Beddgelert, Criccieth and Pwllheli, Llanrwst and Bettws-y-Coed, and consists of Llangollen to Bangor, Bangor to Carnarvon, Carnarvon to Beddgelert (2 routes) ; Beddgelert to Maentwrog; Maentwrog to Barmouth, Bettws-y-Coed to Beddgelert, Conway and Llandudno, and Llandudno to Bangor. Group C will be found in each of our guides to Harlech and Barmouth, Dolgelly, Bala, and Aberystwyth, and consists of Barmouth to Maentwrog, Aberdovey and Dolgelly, Dolgelly to Aberdovey and Bala ; Aberdovey to Dolgelly by Machynlleth ; Bala to Dolgelly ; Dolgelly to Aberystwyth; and Aberystwyth to Newtown. Group D will be found in each of our guides to Chester, Llangollen, and Corwen, and consists of Chester to Llangollen, Llangollen to Cerrig-y-Druidion, Cerrig to Bangor by Bettws-y-Coed ; Shrewsbury to Llangollen ; Newtown to Llangollen ; Llangollen to Bala. It may be noticed that the routes are planned in such a way as to dovetail into one another, and so several complete circuits can be made. • Starting from Chester or Shrewsbury, striking to Carnarvon by Rhyl or Llangollen, then South to Aberystwyth, and returning by Newtown, or direct from Barmouth by Bala. \Ve publish an excellent map for North Wales and District on the scale of 3 miles to the inch, with the main routes, dangerous hills, and distances coloured in red. The district covered, extends South to Barmouth and Shrewsbury. Price ^on linen) 1/6 net. tETTWS-Y-COED. Overlooking the celebrated PONT-Y-PAJR BRIDGE. £uncbcons, Dinners, or teas* APARTMENTS with or without Board. ACCOMMODATION for CYCLISTS. PROPRIETRESS : Mrs. LLOYD JONES. Overlooking the celebrated Pont-y-pair Bridge and Falls LUNCHEONS, DINNERS, and TEAS. APARTMENTS (with or without board). Proprietress : Cars for Hire. Mrs. HARRISON. ABEL HEYWOOD & SON, stS:he 56 & 58 Oldham Street, MANCHESTER, PAPER MERCHANTS, LETTERPRESS AND LITHOGRAPHIC PRINTERS, BOOKBINDERS, WHOLESALE NEWSAGENTS AND STATIONERS, Dealers in Fancy Goods, etc., etc. PRINTING DEPARTMENT comprises every class of Letterpres and Lithographic and Chromo-Lithographic Printing. Special arrangements made with Authors for the printing and binding of books and pamphlets. BOOK DEPARTMENT. An immense selection of books of general literature, and all the best Technical books of the day. Public and Private Libraries, and P.S.A. Associations supplied on exceptional terms. STATIONERY DEPARTMENT. Manufacturers of Account Books, &c. Every requisite for the Counting House. Makers of high-class Steel Pens for Office, School, and Private Use. v Nr FANCY DEPARTMENT. An immense stock of Fancy Goods and Stationery always on show for wholesale buyers. BOOKBINDING AND PAPER-RULING DEPARTMENT. Every class of Binding and Stationery Manufacturing. WHOLESALE NEWSPAPER DEPARTMENT. Newsagents in any part of the country supplied with every requisite lor Uiciv tradu, with absolute punctuality, and on tlio Dvs't terms. E BAILTO. There are many places of great interest to Tourists and others on this Company's line which are easy of access from Manchester, Stockport, Oldham, Stalybridge, Ashton, Liverpool, Leeds, Huddersfield, Sheffield, Nottingham, Birmingham, and all other Lancashire, Yorkshire, Nottinghamshire, Derbyshire and Midland Towns, And to which Tourist and Excursion Tickets are issued each season ; such as RUSHTON, for Danebridge, Ludchurch, Gun Hill, and the Hanging Stone RUDYARD (the "name place" of Rudyard Kipling), with its Lake 180 acres in extent. Boats and Fishing can be obtained on application to the Proprietress of the Rudyard Hotel. LEEK, for Rock Hall, the Roaches and Morredge Hills, and Thor'a Cave. ALTON, for the Ancient Church and Castle. ASHBOURNE, for its splendid Church, and DOVEDALE, Beresford Dale, Mill Dale, Ham, Tissington Spires and Wells, Thorpe, &c. First-rate fishing can be obtained on application to the Hotel Proprietors in the Dovedale district. BUXTON :— A new line has recently been opened from Ashbourne connecting this Company's line with Buxton, so that the shortest route between the Midlands and Buxton is now via the North Stafford line and Ashbourne. FROCHALL, for the great Limestone Quarries at Caldon Low, which Geologists, Field Naturalists, &c., should not fail to visit. DENSTONE, for the College and the ancient ruins of Croxden Abbey, and Weaver Hills. CONCLETON, for the beautiful Old Church at Astbury, and Moreton Old Hall. HARECASTLE, for Clough Hall, Park, and Gardens. STOKE, for the celebrated China Works of Messrs. Mintons, Doultons, Wedgwood, Copeland, Brown Westhead Moore, and others, through which visitors are rsadily conducted. TRENTHAM, for the Park and Grounds, which are open to the public, by the kind permission of the Duke of Sutherland. TUTBURY, for its Ancient and Historical Castle, and fine Church. Also the magnificent Rock, Water, Wood, and Dale Scenery of the Churnet and Dove Valleys, through which Tourists travel over this Line. All information as to train service, cheap tickets, etc., from and to this Company's System, can "bo obtained on application to any of the Company's Agents, or to Railway Office*, W. L>. KHILLIH Jb, Sto'ke-on-Trent, January, 1903. General Manager. CAMBRIAN RAILWAYS. TOURS IN WALES. Bathing, Boating, Fishing (Sea, River, and Lake), Golfing, Coaching, Mountaineering. T • j. rr" i available for two months, issued throughout the year lOUriSl liCK6lS from London and all principal Stations in England, Scotland, and Ireland, to Aberystwyth, Borth, Machynlleth, Aberdovey, Towyn, Dolgclly, Barmouth, Harlcch, L Ian bed r and Pensarn, Por-tmacloc, Criccicth, Pwllheli, Llanidloos, Rhayadcr, Builth Wells and Brecon. CHEAP WEEK-END & TEN DAYS' TICKETS Are issued every Friday or Saturday (for exceptions see the Issuing Companies' Announcements) THROUGHOUT THE YEAR from SHREWSBURY, BIRMING- HAM, MTOLYERHAMPTON, STAFFORD, BURTON, DERBY, LEICESTER, LEEDS, HUDDERSFIELD, STOCKPORT, OLDHAM, MANCHESTER, PRESTON, BLACKBURN, ROCHDALE, BRADFORD, WAKEFIELD, HALIFAX, BOLTON, WIGAN, HARRINGTON, CREWE, LIVERPOOL, STOKE, BIRKENHEAD, and Other Stations to ELLESMERE, OSWESTRY, LLANYMYNECH, LLANFYLL1N, WELSHPOOL, MONTGOMERY, NEWTOWN, LLANIDLOES, MACHYNLLETH, and the CAMBRIAN WATERING PLACES. ... , . _. , are issued from LONDON (L. & N.-W. and G. W. Co. '3 \Veek = end llCkCtS stations) every Friday and Saturday to Machynlleth, Aberystwyth, Aberdovey, Towyn, Barmouth, Doigeliy, Llanbedr and Pensarn, Harlech, Portmadoc, Criccieth, and Pwllheli, available for return on *he following Sunday (where train service permits), Monday or Tuesday. ABOUT 30 RAIL AND COACH EXCURSIONS DAILY Are run froni the Cambrian Railways during the Summer Months, through the finest Scenery in the Principality. Cycling and Walking Tours at cheap fares throughout the Mountain, River, and Lake District of North and Mid Wales. For particulars see Rail and Coach Excursions Programme, issued gratis (July). Express Trains with Through Carriages. (LONDON TO ABERYSTWYTH 6& HOURS, BARMOUTH 7 HOURS) Are run daily during the season in connection with Fast Trains on the London and Nprth-Western and other Railways, between London, Liverpool, Manchester, Birmingham, Stafford, Shrewsbury, Hereford, Merthyr, Cardiff, Newport (Mon. ), &c., and Aberystwyth, Barmouth, &c. SEE THE CAMBRIAN RAILWAYS NEW AND BEAUTIFUL ALBUM. "A SOUVENIR," GEMS OF PICTURESQUE SCENERY IN WILD WALES. 55 Supex*b Views. Price 6d. At the principal Railway Bookstalls, the Company's Stations, and the undermentioned __ Offices, &c. _ ., n. , llr . . . /tl, , JX The Official Guide Book to the " Picturesque Wales (Illustrated). price 6d., can be obtained at the Bookstalls, and at the Company's Offices or Stations, also of Messrs. W. J. Adams & Sons, 59 Fleet Street, London, B.C. Farm House and Country Lodgings.— Attention is drawn to the revised illustrated Pamphlet, issued by the Company. LISTS OF LODGINGS, Price Id., at the Principal Rail way Bookstalls and Company's Stations. Time Tables, Tourist Programmes, Guide Books, and full particulars of Trains, Fares, &c., may be obtained from Mr. W. H. GOUGH, Traffic Superintendent, Oswestry, at any of the Company's Stations, and at the Cambrian Offices, 93 Lord St., LIVERPOOL; The Exchange, CARDIFF; and 47 Meersbrook Park Road, SHEFFIELD ; or on application to the undersigned. Also at the Cambrian Railways Company's London Offices, I52 Westbourne Grove, 150 Piccadilly, and 53 Queen Victoria Street; and at the undermentioned Offices of Messrs. Henry Gaze and Sons Ltd., Excursion Tourist Agents— BIRMINGHAM— 36 Union Passage, New Street; MANCHESTER— ill Market Street; LIVEBPOOL— 91 Lord Street; LEEDS— Mr. L. H. Sykes, 46 Boar Lane ; OLDHAM— Mr. L. R. Stantou, 112 Union St. Oswestry, 1903. C. S. DENNISS, Secretary and General Manager. A Few Practical Hints to Tourists. By the Editor of Abel Hey wood's Guide Books. In travelling along the roads, the maps which accompany the 2d. edition of this series of Guide Books will be found to be amply sufficient, but if the Tourist leaves the beaten tracks and takes to the pathless mountains, he should by all means provide himself with a 1-inch Ordnance Map, by the careful observance of which, and by the compass, he may tread his way anywhere. To prevent confu- sion among the hills, it is best for the tourist always to observe the streams carefully, rather than the mountains, and find the mountains by the streams, rather than the streams by the mountains. If he should at any time be completely lost (and sudden mist is the only excuse for anyone losing himself who has map and compass) it will bo best for him to take Sir Walter Scott's advice, and follow a stream down, walking by or in it, and he will certainly, by and by, arrive at a human habitation, and that by the least dangerous route he could select. The number of precipices down which most streams tumble is few, and the noise of falling water will give timely warning of them. It is very important that the Tourist should remember that the compass does not point true North ; there are considerable varia- tions in different parts, even of Britain, but generally, at the present time, the difference may be said to be 20 degrees West ; in order then to ascertain true North, the needle of the compass should be over the letters N.N.W., and the letter N. on the table of the com- pass will then point North. If the map be placed in this way, with its North to the true North, the Tourist may see correctly the direc- tion he ought to take. It is well to remember that the sun at 12 o'clock each day is in the South, or very near it, and therefore, if a stick be stuck straight up in the ground at that time, the shadow points exactly North. A watch may be used as a compass by pointing the hour-hand towards the sun. Due South will then be midway between the hour-hand and twelve o'clock. No Tourist should ever venture on a walking excursion without a good waterproof coat, sound boots, and a stout walking stick, and if he takes a small parcel of provisions he will find more advantage from them than from drink. Of the latter he may get the best and most plentiful supply at the rivulets. BOOTS.— For walking, strong double-soled boots, with soles pro- jecting beyond the sides of the feet (and thus shielding them from bruises) are best, and it is well to have a few nails in both soles and heels, as slipping on the rocks is prevented by them. Socks or stockings should be stout woollen ones, knitted. Knickerbockers are a great comfort in walking, allowing the freest use of the legs, and at the same time keeping them cool. ABEL HEYWOOD'S CYCLING MAPS. The Clearest and Best Maps Published. Either on Paper or Mounted on Cloth. Folded for Pocket. No. i.— Manchester to the Lakes and North Yorkshire. Taking the whole of Lancashire and part of Yorkshire. Size 36x26. Roads coloured. Mounted on cloth, 2s. No. 3. — Manchester through Derbyshire, Nottingham, Leicester, and Birmingham. Size 36 X 26. Roads coloured. Mounted on cloth, 2s. No. 4. -Seventy Miles about Manchester. Taking in Liverpool, Chester, Crewe, Buxton, Blackpool, Southport, Sheffield, Preston, Blackburn, Leeds, Wakefield, Wrexham, Mold, &c. With two- mile circles. Roads coloured. Size 25 X 30. Cloth divided, 2s. ; cloth, is. 6d. ; paper, is. No. 5. New Map of North Wales and District. Scale: Five miles to the inch. Taking in Warrington to Shrewsbury, and showing all the coast line between Southport and Barmouth. Cycling routes and dangerous hills plainly marked. Mounted on cloth, 1/6 ; Pegamoid, 2s. 6d. No. 6.— New Map of Manchester and District (too miles round Man- chester). Taking in Blackpool, Bradford, Leeds, Worksop, Nottingham, Derby, Stoke, Chester, and Liverpool. Showing County and Main Roads, Cross Roads, Railways, Canals, Woods, Parks, &c. Scale: 3*15 miles to one inch. is. 6d. net, mounted on cloth ; 2s. 6d. net on Pegamoid. Postage, One Penny each extra. Abel Heywood & Son, 56 & 58 Oldham Street, Manchester. Books on Angling and other Sport. Price 6s., cloth. An Angler's Basket. — Filled in sunshine and shade, through the space of 40 years; being a collection of stories, quaint sayings and remembrances, with a few Angling hints and experiences, by T. E. Pritt, some years Angling Editor of t.he Yorkshire Post, author of " North-Country Flies," " The Book of the Grayling," &c., &c. "Mr. Pritt was in his time the best raconteur in the North of England, and, n^ an angler, he was able to put into this book the fruits of forty years' observation and enthusiastic fishing. Mors than this, he added to a shrewd wit and sunny humour the artistic sense and the ttistc which qualify a man to write literature; he look great pains with the book in preparing it for the press during his last illness ; and for these r< n ~< MIS it cannot fail to take high rank among books of this kind, as a permanent addition to the literature of sport." — Yorkshire Daily Post. " Mr. Pritt was a reaay writer, and his book will not only be read with pleasure and profit by anglers, but even those who never whipped a stream will find much in it to entertain them." — Westminster Gazette. Second Edition, Price 6s., cloth. Anglers' Evenings. — First Scries. A collection of original papers on Angling, by Members of the Manchester Anglers' Association. "A singularly interesting collection of fishing papers."— Athencsum. "A number of papers no contributed by members of the Club, have been published ia a volume under the titl* of 'Anglers' Evenings,' and very delightful reading the volume is'." — Scotsman. Price 6s., cloth, with illustrations. Anglers' Evenings. — Second Series. By members of the Manchester Anglers' Association. " A more interesting, brighter, or more useful book upon 'fishing than this series of experiences it would be difficult to find."— Illustrated Sporting and Dramatic News. "This second series of 'Anglers' Evenings' is in many respects an improvement on tha first— good as that was. * * » Mr. George Sheffield's four carbon sketches are real gems. * • » » The papers are all of them good." — Fishing Gazette. Price 6s., cloth, uniform with the above. Anglers' Evenings. —Third Series. By members of the Manchester Anglers' Association. " The volumes published by the Anglers' Association have been the delight of those who love in their leisure to turn to the shelf which holds the volumes that have followed old Isaak's masterpieces."— Daily Chronicle. "Anglers will find this a book much to their taste, and full of agreeable, varied reading." — Daily News. "The third series Is a worthy continuation of former work, and we heartily congratulate the Association upon the appearance, in a handsomely got-up volume, of the papers, the reading of which they originally enjoyed." — The Field. Price 4s. 6d., cloth. George Doggett, Keeper.— A Story of a Devonshire Manor thirty years ago, by P. H. Mules, M.D. A most interesting and beautiful book, illustrated with a large number of high-class engravings. " A pleasant little story, told with real gusto. No question of the open-air freshness of the book." — Manchester Guardian "Good literary style; carries reader with interesting zest; delightful reading. Beautifully printed and graphically illustrated." — Fishing Gazette. " Has the restful charm which belongs to writings of Miss Mitford, or Washington Irving, and the quiet humour of Thomas Hardy. Npt many rivals amongst living authors. Admirably printed and illustrated." — Manchester City News. Manchester: Printed and Published by ABEL HETWOOD & SON, 56 & 58 Oldham Street, London : SIMPKIN, MABSHALL & Co., Limited, Stationers' Hall Court. ROYAL MAIL ROUTE BBTTTEEW ENGLAND, IRELAND, AND SCOTLAND. Through Express Trains are run at frequent intervals between London, Birmingham. Liverpool, Manchester, I reston, the English Lake District, North, South, and Central Wales, Carlisle, Scotland, aud Ireland, with connections to and from the manufacturing districts of South Staffordshire, Chester, Holyhead, Bolton, Blackburn, Bradford, Halifax, Leeds, and the manufacturing districts of Yorkshire. Many of the Express Trains between London and the North call at Willesden Junction, and Special Train Services are in operation between Willexden and Victoria, Willesden and the Crystal Palace and Croydon, Willesd«n and Kensington (for Waterloo and the London and South- Western Railway), Willesden and South. dl, connecting with the Lines South of the Thames, and between Willesden, Broad Street, Kew, and Richmond. Sleeping- Saloons are provided by thenieht trains between London and Liverpool, Manchester, Holyheaa, Edinourgh, Glasgow, Stranraer, Perth and Aberdeen ; extra charm 5s. for each Berth in addition to the ordinary first-class fare. Breakfast, Luncheon, Tea, and Dining: Cars are run on the principal trains betwnen London and Liverpool, Manchester, Hoi j head, Birmingham, and Wolverham pton . Corridor Trains with Refreshment and Dining Oars between London and Kdinburgh and Glasgow. Lug-gage collected, forwarded in advance, and delivered at a charge of II- per Package. Rugs and Pillows for PassengerSt Pillows and Rugs may be obtained by Passengers travelling by the uiitht trains. Chame, 6d. for each Rug or Pillow. Hotel Accommodation.— London (Kuston Hotel), Liverpool (North-Western Hotel), Birmingham (Queen's Hotel), Preston (Park Hotel), CrewelCrewe Arms). Glasgow (Central Station Hotel). Perth (General Station Hotel), Dublin (North- Western Hotel), Holyhead (Station Hotel), Greener*, Bletchley, (North-Western Hotel). The accom- modation provided at these Hotels is of the highest standard, and the charges will be found reasonable. Hot or Cold Luncheons in baskets are provided at the principal stations, the churirf heinit 3-... including Beer or Wine, and 2s. 6d. without. Tea Baskets containing a Pot of Tea, Bread and Butter, and Cake, can be obtained at Preston, Llauuudnp Junction, Builth Road, Crewe, Birmingham (New Street/, Rugby, and Northampton, price Is. each. Hourly Express Train Service between Liverpool and Manchester, performing the iouruej in 4O minutes. Through Express Trains between Liverpool, Manchester, Leeds, Hull, York, and Tvewir»stie-on-T.vne. Through Express Trains between Liverpool, Manchester, Cardiff, Bristol, Exeter, Plymouth, and the West of England. GDOURXtel? TiCKETS are ia-med during the season from the Company's principal stations to Scotland, The English Lake District, Ireland, North, South, and Central Wales, Malvern, Buxton, Scarboro , Harrogate, Southport, Blackpool, Morecambe, Isle of Man, Isle of Wight, Jersey, Guernsey, and other Tourist Resorts. OHEAP WEEK-END AND TEN DAYS' TICKETS are issued on Fridays and Saturdays (July Slit and August 1st ei epted), from many of the Provincial Stations on the L. 4 N.-W. Railway to North Wales, the Cambrian Line, Blackpool, Morecambe, Windermere, Great Eastern Co.'s East Coast Stations, and theN.E. Co.'s Yorkshire Coast Stations. Full particulars can be obtained at the Stations. WEEK-END TICKETS are also issued from London. TOURIST PROGRAMMES with particulars of Circular and other Tours, and all information, may be obtained on application to Mr. ROBERT TURNBULL, Superintendent of the Line, Euston Station, or at any of the Company's Railway Statieni and raroel Receiving Offices. EXCURSION TRAINS at very low fares, will run at intervals during the Summer ••anon, to and from London, Liverpool, Manchester, JTorkihire, Cti ester, Dublin, Birmingham, Shrewsbury, Lancaster, Carlisle, North Wales, Cambrian Coast, and the English Lake District, and other Sun. .us ou tha London and North- Western system, particulars of which will be announced about fourteen days prior to the running of the trains. London, Button Station. 1908. FRK DK KICK HABBIgOIT, Q«aml Haaa«*r. 405 "iSJssr Return this material to the library from which it was borrowed. kind of Skin Disease it has no equal. fully idBoj ainspj 1 ailr Medi •rid foi ure of id Uk and PRICES, 1/H and 2/9 per Box or Pot, of all Chemist* Manufactured only at 78 New Oxford Street, London, where advice may be obtained daily (Saturdays excepted), between the hours of n and 4, or by post, DA Beywood- A guide to -y-Coec A 000 995 346 4 DA 745 B37H5